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SOUTH OF THE DORDOGNE
Golf in France has several advantages, it is within easy access, more so with the additional flights to regional airports, the courses are neither busy nor expensive, and the food and wine is marvellous. The Dordogne and the Perigord are served by Bergerac and Bordeaux airports, and a morning flight can have you on the first tee in the afternoon. My visit was to Chateau Les Merles, just twelve kilometres East from Bergerac, it is a 19th century chateau wonderfully refurbished by the Van Grinsven family, who own and operate the hotel. They have achieved a transformation by repairing and preserving the structure and furnishing the hotel in a modern minimalistic style.

This was my second visit, and it will not be too long before there is another return. There is a charming nine hole course, perfect holiday golf, not long but with enough challenge to make the game interesting. Course management will yield a good card, once you have been around for the first time to find the way home. The third and fourth holes, a dogleg par 4 and a short hole over a lake are the pick of the holes.

The chateau boasts one of the finest restaurants in the region, La Bruyere Blanche, where the skills of Dutch master chef, Albert Kooy, are there to be enjoyed. With home grown produce from the gardens and wines that are all local, and of fine quality as befits such a quality establishment.

For the energetic there is tennis, fitness centre and an outdoor pool. The start of a delightful stay, the evening providing a gastronomic experience, fully living up to the high reputation. Day two and the early morning mist clears as breakfast is taken, the sunshine breaks through and the first tee beckons. Another eighteen holes of very enjoyable golf.

The area is well served with two other very good golfing locations. Just on the other side of Bergerac is Chateau des Vigiers, a superb hotel in a chateau dating back to 1597. A first class course designed by Donald Steel, created amongst the fruit trees, oaks, lakes and vineyards, with both the 9th and 18th finishing in front of the chateau. Steel has named the 18th as his favourite hole, with a dogleg over a ridge, and then a shot over the lake to the green. Described as 'Vintage finale'.

For those seeking more variety, there is another top quality option, just over twenty kilometres south is Villeneuve Sur Lot. The complex was acquired in 2003 by Graham Goodman, and he raised the standards. It is a challenging par 72 layout of 6107 metres, designed by R Berther, enhanced and toughened by lakes and water courses, with dramatic changes in elevation, making good driving a priority.

The lakes are in play on the early holes, epitomised by the par 3 5th hole. The high point of the course is on the 8th tee, with spectacular views over the surrounding farmland and vineyards. The back nine is another test, climbs to the top of the escarpment on the 10th, 12th and 14th holes, followed by falls, particularly the 11th, a par 5 which skirts the lake near the green. The finishing stretch offers the chance to recoup some of the shots that will have escaped earlier in the round.

By contrast there is almost a most enjoyable nine hole par 3 course, located behind the practice area, a great way to sharpen the short game. There are added attractions, with horseriding, fishing and boating. Sadly, the clubhouse a beautiful stone building has recently been destroyed by fire, but in true spirit the club has remained open, and the clubhouse will be reopened early next year.

A wonderful area for a golf trip, with variety of courses within travelling distance, and the real bonus of superb accommodation with excellent cuisine and environment.

Mike Rees on 2006-12-05